Acetate - A synthetic fiber used for luxurious formal fabrics such as taffeta and satin, as well as garment linings.
Acrylic - The generic name for a synthetic fiber used mainly as a substitute for wool.
Angora - A very soft hair fiber from the Angora rabbit. It may be blended with rayon or wool fibers for a novelty effect.
Aniline Finish - A process of coloring skins, without a top finish - only dyes are used to achieve the coloration. This process can only be used on the finest quality skins as all surface blemishes remain apparent in this process and thus become noticeable in the garment.
Aramid - A generic name for a synthetic fiber that is very strong and highly flame resistant. Trade names are Nomex and Kevlar .
Artic Merino (Double-Face) Shearling - Only found in Spain, this skin is the softest and lightest of all the shearlings. The wool side is dyed and oxidized with a special treatment to create a unique two tone silver effect.
Beaver - In its natural form, Beaver features long, lustrous guard hairs over a thick, plush underfur. It offers sumptuous warmth and a natural look. Sheared Beaver has a soft, velvety hand and unbeatable warmth. It is often dyed in playful, fashionable colors. Typically, the whiter the fur: the greater the value. A long-haired fur.
Bella Toscana Shearling - This fine shearling features a soft suede finish on one side and long, silky wool on the other. The wool on Bella Toscana shearling is hand dyed for a natural, wild look.
Bias - The diagonal of a woven fabric between the warp (lengthwise) and the filling (crosswise) threads. This part of the fabric has the greatest amount of stretch and can easily be distorted in the cleaning and pressing process.
Blackglama - An American Legend trade name describing a very dark brown shade of mink that appears almost black.
Bleaching - A chemical process in which furs are lightened or made white. Bleaching generally weakens the leather of a fur.
Bleeding - The running of dyes that aren't colorfast in solvent or water. When the color runs it can stain other materials.
Blemish - Any distinct mark occurring on the skin that is secondary to the natural character of the skin.
Blend - A fabric made from two or more fibers that will have the performance characteristics of both fibers (i.e., a cotton and polyester blend).
Bouclé - A rough, fairly thick, novelty yarn that gives a fabric a tufted or knotted texture.
Broadcloth - A tightly woven, plain weave fabric often made of cotton or cotton/polyester blends popular in shirts.
Brocade - A heavy jacquard weave fabric with a design, such as leaves and flowers, woven into it. Metallic threads are often used in brocades.
Bugle Beads - Tube-shaped beads originally made of glass although often man-made. Gold or silver coatings inside the tube may discolor with age or be removed in a drycleaning process.
Bukhara - Trade name for Persian Lamb (karacul) from the U.S.S.R.
Burnished - Induced shine accomplished by ironing the skin.
Calico - A woven cotton fabric usually with an allover floral print.
Camel Hair - A hair fiber made from either an Asian or African camel. Similar specialty hair fibers come from South American animals, such as, Llama, Alpaca, Guanaco and Vicuna. Cashmere - A fine, soft wool obtained from goats native to Kashmir and Tibet.
Cashmere - fine soft wool, originally that from the Kashmir goat.
Cellulose - Fibers that come from a plant source, such as cotton, linen, ramie and many forms of rayon.
Chenille -A fuzzy pile yarn that resembles a caterpillar or pipe cleaner. Commonly found in rugs, bedspreads, and bathroom accessories, but also used in sweaters, blouses, and dresses.
Chiffon - A sheer, lightweight, woven fabric originally made of silk but usually made from man-made fibers today.
Chintz - A closely woven plain weave fabric with a shiny lustrous finish, often printed in bright floral designs.
City Chilean Shearling - This shearling, noted for its exceptional value and durability, is usually from or processed in Chile. Rugged and robust, it's a hardworking, great-looking heavyweight.
Chinchilla - Extremely sought after, Chinchilla boasts an extremely soft, silky texture. It features a short, dense fur with lustrous guard hairs and sumptuous underfur.
Cockle - A common skin disease due to insect attack while the animal is alive. It appears as circular spots resembling raindrops.
Colorfast - A term which implies that the color in a fabric will not be removed in the recommended cleaning procedure but may change or fade upon normal and expected exposure to sunlight or other atmospheric elements.
Commercial grade - A fur of less than prime quality.
Corduroy - A pile fabric in which yarns inserted in the weave have been cut to make narrow or wide ribs.
Corral Merino (Double-Face) Shearling - This extremely soft Spanish Merino shearling is created by dyeing the skin with multiple colorations and then buffing it. The result is a fabulous contrast: a wild, rugged look on the outside and soft, silky wool on the inside.
Corrected Grain - A process of correcting cowhide skins whereby the grain of the leather is leveled with a chemical product. The process is generally applicable to lower-quality skins with deep abrasions.
Cost-utility ratio - A term used when determining the advisability of having a fur remodeled.
Cotton - A natural soft fiber that grows around the seeds of the cotton plant. The fiber is most often used to make a versatile, soft, breathable fabric.
Coyote - This distinctive fur is known for its wonderfully wild look and durability. A long-haired fur, it is often pale grey or tan, with soft, thick underfur.
Crepe - A fabric with an overall crinkled surface that is made from yarns with such a high twist that the yarn actually kinks.
Crocking - Loose fiber/dye particles which don't fully adhere to the skin.
Curly Suede Sheepskin - Sometimes referred to as "Slink Lamb," Curly Suede is the name given to sheepskin with tight curls on one side and a suede finish on the other.
Damask - A flat, patterned fabric with plain and satin weaves produced on a jacquard loom much like brocade.
Denim - A twill weave fabric with a colored warp and white filling thread usually associated with blue jeans.
Diesel - Diesel is a process of tanning sheepskin hides to yield a durable finish and strong wool.
Distressed - A process of finishing on a variety of skins (cow, lamb, goat) which simulate a worn or aged look.
Double Hiding - Naturally occurring phenomenon in lambskins relating to the separation of the layers of the skin, with the formation of air pockets between the layers of skin.
Down - Soft fine fluffy feathers that form the first covering of a young bird or an insulating layer below the contour feathers of an adult bird.
Drape - Refers to the manner in which the finished garment hangs on the person.
Drum - A large vessel or vat used in the processing of the skins.
Drum Dyed - A process of coloration whereby the skins are fully immersed in a liquid dye solution in order to obtain desired color.
Drumming - A process in which furs are cleaned and fluffed by putting them in a drum with chemically treated sawdust. The abrasive action of the sawdust as the fur revolves in the drum cleans and fluffs the furs.
Drycleaning - Drycleaning is a type of cleaning done in a closed machine that cleans, spin and dries. This machine can use any number of special cleaning solvents other than water. Drycleaning solvents are easier on clothes than washing, preventing shrinkage, color loss, and change of texture or finish, thus returning the garment to you in a ready to wear condition.
Dyeing - A process in which the color of a fur is changed.
Easy Care/Wrinkle Free - Easy care, Wrinkle-resistant, wrinkle free, durable press and permanent press are textile-finishing terms that are used interchangeably. These terms all apply to various types of finishing agents that have been added to fabrics to prevent or decrease the amount of wrinkles.
Emboss - A mechanical means of changing the normal grain of the skin.
Embroidered - Decorate (cloth) by sewing patterns on it with thread.
Entrefino Shearling - This type of shearling is most commonly found in Spain and is renowned for the fine quality of its wool and luxurious hand.
Ermine - Used for the bordering of judges' robes in France and the U.K., Ermine features extremely silky guard hairs and dense underfur. Exotics - Refers to a number of unusual animal/reptile skins that are tanned primarily for the small leather good/accessory/shoe business (i.e. lizard, snake, crocodile skins, etc.)
Fabric - The outer fabric of a garment or household item. Sometimes called the base fabric.
Fake fur - A common term for synthetic fabrics used to imitate animal pelts. Fake fur fibers are very easily damaged by heat. Feathering - Clipping fur in shingled layers to produce an effect similar to eyelash fringe. Feathering is also another term for tip-dyeing, as this process was often done with a feather.
Felt - A fabric made from wool, fur, or hair fibers that mesh together when heat, moisture, and mechanical action are applied.
Finish - A means of adjusting the skin in order to achieve the desired color, or the visible layer of materials applied to the skin
Finishing - Pressing or ironing done on specialized equipment. Drycleaners use many different pieces of equipment to professionally finish any type of household or wearable fashion. Such professional care gives garments a crisp, wrinkle-free, like-new appearance.
Finn Raccoon - A soft, supple fur, Finn Raccoon features long, thick, light-colored guard hairs with black tips and dense underfur.
Fire Resistant - Chemicals applied to fabrics to make them resistant to burning.
Fisher - From an animal similar to the Martin, Fisher fur is renowned for its soft hand and durability. It features silky guard hairs and a rich, dense underfur. Fitch - A long-haired, wonderfully natural-looking fur, Fitch features long guard hairs over underfur.
Flank - the loose, thin side portion of the skins (the underbelly of the animal).
Flat fur - A type of fur with leather and only one kind of fur or hair, such as hair seal or Persian lamb.
Flax - A soft, lustrous and flexible plant fiber, stronger than cotton but less elastic. The best grades are used for linen.
Flesh - The interfacing side of the skin as opposed to the outer portion of the skin.
Fleshing - Scraping the leather side of a raw pelt to remove excess fats and other material.
Flocked Fabric Finish - Small pieces of fiber glued or bonded to the surface of a fabric to alter the texture or create a design to imitate velvet or suede.
Florentine Merino Shearling - A luxurious Spanish Merino shearling that features a soft suede finish and silky fur that's hand-dyed to create a wild and natural look.
Fox - Soft, luxurious Fox comes in the widest range of natural colors of any fur, with the exception of mink. Natural color varieties include silver cross, crystal blue, red, grey, and white; pelts can also be dyed in fashionable colors. Fox fur features long, lustrous guard hairs with thick, soft underfur.
French Invisible Method - This type of reweaving is done on very small holes, up to about the size of a dime. It is a meticulous process in which threads are taken from an inside seam of the garment and actually hand woven in and out of all other threads in order to close the hole and make it invisible. It is time-consuming process and is thus the most expensive method.
French Laundry - French laundry cleaners are typically cleaners that wash and tend to delicate articles of fabric. While, they will clean a variety of things, this is their specialty. French laundry methods are used a various cleaners.
Frontier Shearling (Double-Face) Shearling - Known for rugged good looks and high-level performance, this plush, hardy shearling hails from the chilly mountains of Iceland. Intrepid in even the bitterest weather, it is tanned using century-old techniques.
Fusible Fabric - A fabric with an adhesive coating that can be joined to another fabric by applying heat, moisture and pressure.
Gabardine - A closely woven durable fabric recognized by a diagonal line. Mostly used for jeans and uniforms, the fabric can show shine when the raised lines are flattened in wear areas.
Glazed - Induced shine on the skin surface by a glass or steel roller.
Goat Fur - Rustic and uniquely textured, goat fur features the animal’s natural hide and fur for a rugged look and feel.
Grooving - Shearing fur in “stripes” of alternating widths and depths. The result is similar to corduroy; the stripes can be wide or narrow. Also called cording.
Grotzen - A Yiddish word referring to the guard hair along the center back of a pelt. It is longer and coarser than the rest of the fur and sometimes resembles a short mane.
Growth - Naturally occurring lines which form during the development of the animal, generally found around the neck and butt area.
Guard hair - The long lustrous outer hair of a fur that protects the animal from inclement weather. Guard hairs are lacking in flat furs such as antelope.
Hand - Refers to the tactile feel of the leather.
Hydrocarbon technologies - Hydrocarbon technologies are a branch of chemical technology based on hydrocarbon raw materials derived from petroleum and natural gas. Petroleum is perhaps the most important substance consumed in modern society.
Interfacing - A woven, knit or non-woven fabric used to give additional body and strength to certain parts of garments. Some areas that usually contain interfacing include front opening edges, collars, and pocket flaps.
Inweave - This is the most common reweaving process. A piece of fabric from a hidden area of the garment is placed over the hole and interwoven into the edges of the hole. It also, is a difficult process and must be matched exactly with the pattern of the garment. An inweave on a solid color material may show a discernible square outline.
Ironed Sheepskin - Straightening the wool on sheepskin yields a plush, smooth, fur-like appearance.
Jabot - An ornamental frill or ruffle, typically made of lace.
Jersey - A very thin single-knit fabric with a smooth surface on one side and a more textured surface on reverse. The word jersey is often used to describe any knit.
Knit - A method of making fabrics through the interlooping of yarn. These fabrics are characterized by their ability to stretch and recover to the original shape.
Lace -Lace is an openwork fabric, patterned with open holes in the work, made by machine or by hand. There are many types of lace designs and mostly used for decorative trim.
Lambrequins - A short piece of decorative drapery hung over the top of a door or window or draped from a shelf or mantelpiece
Leather- Any animal skin that is tanned with its hair follicles removed.
Leathering - A process in which strips of fur are alternated with strips of leather. It is used to lighten very heavy furs, such as wolverine and badger, and to create different styles.
Letting out - A method in which pelts are scored into very narrow, fine strips, and then resewn. The shape of the pelt is changed, but not the square area.
Life Expectancy - the useful life of a garment or household item under normal conditions. Contrary to the belief of some, frequent cleaning does not damage clothes. Frequent cleaning extends the life of a garment by removing stains and ground-in dirt and soils that can cause fiber abrasion.
Linen - Linen is a material made from the fibers of the flax plant. Used mainly for lightweight summer clothes. It is strong, durable, and resists rotting in damp climates.
Lycra - This is Invista's registered trademark for a synthetic fabric with elastic properties known generically as "spandex or elastane"
Lynx - Lynx is one of nature's most exquisitely patterned pelts.
Canadian Lynx features creamy white tones and characteristic darker markings. Russian Lynx features soft, creamy fur with subtle beige markings.
Lyocell - A fiber made from wood pulp with many similar properties as rayon. It is marketed under the trade name, "Tencel". Majestic - Trade name for Canadian mink.
Marten - Several different types of Martens produce sleek and luxurious pelts. The American Marten features long, silky guard hairs and a dense underfur; the Baum Marten has fur that's softer, shinier, and silkier. The Stone Marten, the finest available, has soft, plush guard hairs and a thick underfur.
Matelassé - Matelassé (pronounced matt-le-zay) is a French word meaning padded, lined or quilted. It is used to describe fabric that appears to be quilted but is not. The looms used to produce matelassé cotton were invented in 1801 by a Frenchman named Joseph Marie Jacquard.
Mercerized - Mercerization is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric a lustrous appearance.
Merinillo Shearling - The softest, lightest shearling available, usually from Spain.
Merino Grizzly (Double-Face) Shearling - Double dyed and double sueded for a wild and primitive look, this Spanish Merino is one of the softest, lightest, and finest shearlings available.
Microfiber - A very thin, soft synthetic fiber made from polyester or nylon or a blend of polyester and nylon. Popularly used for clothes because it is lightweight, soft, cool and wicks moisture away from the body. It can feel like cotton or silk.
Mill - Tumbling the skins in a large vessel to induce softness and other grain characteristics.
Mink - The most popular fur on the market, Mink features soft, lightweight fur, with lustrous guard hairs and soft, dense underfur. The long-haired version of mink offers a more full-bodied alternative to Sheared Mink. A very durable fur. Sheared Mink is velvety soft and smooth, Sheared Mink is lofty, luxurious, durable, and extremely warm-a sporty alternative to full-bodied Mink. Sheared mink can be dyed a wide range of fashionable colors.
Mohair - Mohair is produced from the hair of the Angora goat. This fabric is durable, warm, insulating, and light.
Moire- silk fabric that has been subjected to heat and pressure rollers after weaving to give it a rippled appearance.
Montana Merino (Double-Face) Shearling - This fine Spanish merino shearling features a curly, two-tone appearance.
Mothproofing - A chemical treatment given to fabrics that provides protection from insects without leaving the objectionable odors of mothballs. Some cleaners provide mothproofing as a service.
Mutation - A fur that is a variation of the naturally occurring color of the fur. Rabbit, chinchilla, fox, and mink are bred in mutation colors. Natural. Natural furs have been dressed, but are sold in their natural colors and textures.
Nap - A fuzzy or soft down-like surface produced by brushing the fabric, usually with wire brushes.
Nappa - A finished lamb, sheepskin or cowhide, on the grain side.
Natural ranch mink - A term referring to mink which ranges in color from chocolate brown to off-black.
Non-woven Fabrics - Fabrics made from fibers that are held together in a web by mechanical or chemical means or through heat. Some examples include felt and Ultrasuede.
Norka - Trade name for Russian mink.
Northern Merino (Double-Face) Shearling - This classic shearling hails from the north of Spain and is known for rugged elegance and supple softness.
Nubuck - A process of finishing whereby the grain side of the skin (lambskin or cowhide) is stripped away, leaving a suede effect. The look of the nubuck process will give a similar appearance to suede as it produces a tight, velvety nap.
Nutria - Very similar to Beaver, Nutria is a silky, lightweight fur that is often shorn, for a sporty look. A versatile fur, it's used frequently in linings and trims and can be dyed a variety of fashionable colors.
Nylon - A generic designation for a synthetic fiber produced originally as a replacement for silk.
Odor Removal - Some cleaners specialize in odor removal and flood and fire restoration of water or smoke-damaged items. These cleaners use special chemicals and equipment in the elimination of the odors.
Olefin - A heat sensitive synthetic fiber most often used in carpets, but can also be used in components of clothes. Olefin is also referred to as polypropylene.
Organza - A crisp transparent fabric usually made from silk, nylon or polyester.
Oxford - A fabric woven in a 2x1 basket weave and made of cotton or a cotton blend. It often has a thin, colored warp and a thick, white filling and is commonly used in shirts.
Oxidation - A natural process in which fur changes color over time. Although all furs will eventually oxidize, modern tanning techniques make the change in color look natural.
Pack - Refers to any dye lot (drum load) of tanned leather.
Partial skins - Portions of pelts, including flanks or sides and bellies, that are used in fur garments. The fur is usually softest in these areas, and the desirability of the fur depends largely on the markings, color, and texture.
Patent - A heavily finished effect that gives a highly lustrous, baked enamel type appearance.
Pigment Dyed - A process of finishing any leather whereby the color is applied in the final stage of finishing. The pigment is applied to the surface of the skin instead of being absorbed into the skin as in the case of the drum-dyed leather.
Pelt -A pelt is the naturally beautiful hide or skin of an animal. All of our sheepskin pelts and cowhide rugs are hand-chosen for their quality and beauty; we use only the finest animal skins for long-lasting, rugged elegance.
Pieced fur - Furs made from very small trimmings from full pelts-may be as small as a half an inch in length. The cuttings are usually sewn into large sheets, called plates. Such furs as fox, mink, or Persian lamb can be pieced. Pieced furs are less expensive than other types, but also wear the most poorly, and for this reason should always be reinforced on the leather side.
Pile - A fabric with an extra set of yarns inserted into the base of the woven or knit fabric to produce the "hair like" surface texture. Velvet, velveteen, corduroy, and fake fur are the most common pile fabrics.
Pilling - The tendency of short fibers to mat and form small balls or pills on the surface of a fabric. The length of the fiber and twist of the yarn will affect pilling.
Pinhole - A natural defect related to skins of fine-wooled origin. When thick hair follicles or clumps of hair follicles are removed from the grain of the leather, they can leave a hole the size of a pin prick in the surface of the skin similar to a pore.
Plates - Sections of fur-often measuring eighteen by twenty-four inches-that have been sewn together like cloth. The fur pattern is placed on the plate, which is cut like fabric. Pieced furs are made from plates.
Plucking - A process in which the guard hairs of a fur are removed by tweezing or plucking. In some cases, only the uneven or coarse hairs are plucked. It is necessary to pluck the furs before shearing them.
Polyester - A synthetic fiber that can be made into many fabric forms. It can simulate many other fibers, such as silk and rayon, thus is very popular in clothing.
Polyurethane - Polyurethane is a unique material that offers the elasticity of rubber combined with the toughness and durability of metal. It is used mainly as a coating material for many fabrics, such as coats and ski wear.
Preservation - Preservation is a special type of storage that helps prolong the life of a garment for years and years. Many cleaners specialize in the preservation of wedding gowns, christening gowns, and other family heirlooms.
Processing - Any method of changing the appearance or texture of a given fur including dyeing, grooving, and bleaching.
PVC - The shortened term for polyvinyl chloride, a hard thermoplastic material. When PVC is made softer by special chemicals, it is used in upholstery and clothing. It can simulate leather.
Rabbit -Soft, silky, and extremely popular, Rabbit is wonderfully lightweight and warm. Typically, Rabbit features medium-length guard hairs and is often sheared or grooved for a more sporty look.
Raccoon - Soft, sumptuous, and beautiful in its natural coloring, Raccoon features long grey or black guard hairs with silver tips, with a thick, dense underfur. Wild and wooly, Raccoon is a very durable fur.
Ranched fur - Fur from animals which are raised on farms, including mink, chinchilla, sheep, fox, and nutria. Approximately 85 to 90 percent of the furs used in the United States are from ranched animals.
Rayon - The generic name for a cellulose-based man-made fiber. Rayon can have characteristics similar to those of cotton, linen, and silk.
Restoration - In addition to preservation, cleaners may specialize in the restoration of old wedding gowns, heirloom items, and antique textiles. These items often are very delicate and require great care and the level they can restored depends on their condition at the time they are brought in. It is not uncommon, though, for a cleaner to restore a wedding gown originally worn by a bride-to-be's grandmother well enough that the bride can wear it in her own wedding.
Rex Rabbit - Rex Rabbit is known for its plush, velvety hand and sumptuous feel. Can be worn natural, long, and silky, or sheared and sporty.
Reknitting - This type of weave can be done on knitted fabrics only, such as sweaters, double knits or wool knits. Visibility depends on the type and color of the knit and the size of the damage.
Rhinestones - This decorative glistening trim is a diamond simulant made from glass, plastic, crystal or acrylic.
Ribbing - A process in which very narrow strips of leather are alternated with strips of fur. Often used for less expensive coats and jackets.
Ribby - A naturally occurring phenomenon, particularly associated with fine-wooled sheepskins whereby the rib-cage area of the animal leaves delineated markings on the skin.
Sable - Sable is an abundant yet lightweight fur that is known for its quality and durability. In general, Sable features long, luxurious guard hairs and thick underfur. Russian Sable, the most coveted Sable, is brown with silver fur. Canadian Golden Sable features gold and amber hues.
SAGA - Trademark for ranch-raised Scandinavian mink and fox pelts.
Satin - Satin weave fabrics are characterized by yarns that float over four to seven yarns before being interlaced with yarns laid in the opposite direction. The floating yarns along the surface reflect light, which gives the fabric its luster. Satin fabrics can be made from silk or man-made fibers like acetate, rayon, nylon, and polyester.
Scars - Any unnatural occurring opening in the skin surface that has healed, leaving a distinct marking.
Seedy - Small indentions of the grain surface caused by grass-seed penetration.
Sequins - Sequins are disk shaped flat beads used for decorative purposes. They are available in a wide variety of colors and geometrical shapes. Sequins may be sewn or glued to fabrics.
Sheared Beaver - Sheared Beaver has a soft, velvety hand and unbeatable warmth. It is often dyed in playful, fashionable colors. Typically, the whiter the fur: the greater the value. A long-haired fur. Beaver (natural) In its natural form, Beaver features long, lustrous guard hairs over a thick, plush underfur. It features sumptuous warmth and a natural look.
Sheared Mink - Velvety soft and smooth, Sheared Mink is lofty, luxurious, durable, and extremely warm-a sporty alternative to full-bodied Mink. The most popular fur available, mink can be dyed a wide range of fashionable colors. Mink (natural) features soft, lightweight fur, with lustrous guard hairs and soft, dense underfur. A more full-bodied alternative.
Shearling - Natural lamb pelts with the leather side often sueded and worn on the outside.Color variation and skin blemishes are common.
Shears - A thin, diaphanous material, as chiffon or voile.
Shrunken - A process applied strictly to sheep and lambskins, whereby the natural grain texture is altered to take on a pebbled or mottled appearance. This tanning process can be induced either chemically or physically by shrinking the skin.
Silk - A natural filament fiber produced by silk worms when spinning their cocoons that is popular for its natural luster and softness.
Sizing - A finish applied to yarns and fabrics to enhance their texture, weight and luster. Sizings are invisible and if removed in a care process the shape and appearance of a fabric will be affected.
Skin-on-skin - A method of making fur garments in which the skins are not let out, but trimmed, and then fit to a pattern. Skin-on-skin coats are less expensive to make and do not require as much skill as let-out garments. This process is often used with larger skins, as well as with less expensive pelts. However, sable and mink garments are made skin-on-skin as well.
Skive - The process of reducing the thickness of leather.
Skiver - The grain split of the sheepskin.
Sobol - Trade name for Soviet-produced sable, considered the finest in the world.
Spandex - A strong, stretchable synthetic fiber used as a replacement for rubber. Common trade names of Lycra or Elaspan.
Specialty fur - A fur combining unusual techniques and materials to create a one-of-a-kind garment.
Split - A layer of skin that has been skived off by mechanical means.
Square Foot - The unit of measure of a skin by which all leathers are purchased from tanners by manufacturers.
Stain removal (spotting) - Drycleaners use complex procedures and special stain removal chemicals to remove stains. Different stains require different treatments, which drycleaners are trained to do. Why risk a disaster using an over-the-counter "all-purpose" stain removal product or trying a "home remedy" when you could rely on your drycleaner's expert stain removal abilities?
Stain Resistant - Special chemicals can be applied to fabrics and garments that allow them to "release" stains more readily when cleaned.
Starch - This is a special chemical compound that bonds with fabric during professional laundering to add body or stiffness. A starch is removed in the next laundry process.
Stone Buffed Merino Shearling - This Spanish Merino shearling is hand-buffed with volcanic pumice stones and hand-dyed to create a rugged, worn-in look and feel.
Strain - A skin defect generally found in the flank of the skin wherein the grain layer of the skin opens and splits away from the secondary layer of skin.
Suede - Suede skins are always finished on the flesh side of the skin. By doing so, the tanner is able to achieve a "nappy" appearance. If the tanner leaves the fibrous materials of the skin too long, the skin is termed to be "woolly". If the tanner desires a fine smooth appearance, the individual fibers are closely cropped and the skin is termed to have a "fine nap".
Swag - A curtain or piece of fabric fastened so as to hang in a drooping curve.
Synthetics - A synthetic material or chemical, especially a textile fiber.
Taffeta - a fine lustrous silk or similar synthetic fabric with a crisp texture.
Tannage/Tanning - The means of stabilizing the skin structure by chemical means.
Tanning - A process in which the raw pelts are skinned, fleshed, soaked, and washed in special solutions to prepare them for use in garments.
Tanuki - The Japanese raccoon boasts exotic, sumptuous fur with distinctive markings. Tanuki is well known for its long guard hairs and supple hand.
Tencel - The trade name for lyocell. See Lyocell.
Ticking - A strong, durable material, typically striped, used to cover mattresses and pillows
Tip-dyeing - Coloring only the tips of the guard hairs for uniform shading.
UGG - Ugg boots are known in Australia and New Zealand as a unisex style of sheepskin boot. It is typically made of twin-faced sheepskin with fleece on the inside, a tanned outer surface and a synthetic sole
Underfiber - The underfur of a fur with guard hairs. The underfiber, or underfur, should be dense, soft, and compact. This is what keeps you,and the animal, warm.
Upholstery cleaning - Uses portable equipment containing drycleaning fluid or water solution to remove soils from furniture fabrics. Upholstery fabrics, including zippered cushion covers, are not made to withstand drycleaning or laundering.
Valance - A length of decorative drapery attached to the canopy or frame of a bed in order to screen the structure or the space beneath it.
Velvet - A fabric with a short, closely woven pile. It is usually made of rayon, acetate, silk, nylon, or a blend of these fibers.
Vintage fur - A previously owned garment that combines a high degree of workmanship with quality materials to create a valuable antique fur.
Vinyon - A synthetic fiber made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and is used in fabric coatings and trims. It can be made to simulate leather.
Viscose - A type of rayon and sometimes is used interchangeably with the term rayon.
Water Repellent - Special chemicals can be added to fabric surfaces to actually repel water during inclement weather. These can be applied by the clothing manufacturer or afterwards by a professional cleaner.
Weave - Yarns interlacing at right angles. There are three basic weave types: plain, twill, and satin. All other weaves are variations of these. Some of the more common variations include basket, rib, and jacquard.
Weight - The term used for the measurement of the thickness of the leather.
Wet cleaning - Wet cleaning is a professional water based process that uses specialized additives that are safe on dyes and fabrics to minimize shrinkage and color loss. Professional wet cleaning also includes stain removal and finishing, which returns the garment to you in a ready to wear condition.
Wool - A versatile natural fiber derived from the hair of domesticated animals, usually lamb or sheep. Wool wicks moisture and depending on the type of fabric the yarn is spun into, can keep you warm or cool.
Woolen - A wool fabric made from loosely twisted yarns that have a somewhat fuzzy surface.
Worsted - A wool fabric with a clean, smooth surface made from tightly twisted yarns.
Yarn - A continuous strand spun from short (staple) fibers or long (filament) fibers. Yarns can be of low twist (lofty) or high twist (tight).
Acrylic - The generic name for a synthetic fiber used mainly as a substitute for wool.
Angora - A very soft hair fiber from the Angora rabbit. It may be blended with rayon or wool fibers for a novelty effect.
Aniline Finish - A process of coloring skins, without a top finish - only dyes are used to achieve the coloration. This process can only be used on the finest quality skins as all surface blemishes remain apparent in this process and thus become noticeable in the garment.
Aramid - A generic name for a synthetic fiber that is very strong and highly flame resistant. Trade names are Nomex and Kevlar .
Artic Merino (Double-Face) Shearling - Only found in Spain, this skin is the softest and lightest of all the shearlings. The wool side is dyed and oxidized with a special treatment to create a unique two tone silver effect.
Beaver - In its natural form, Beaver features long, lustrous guard hairs over a thick, plush underfur. It offers sumptuous warmth and a natural look. Sheared Beaver has a soft, velvety hand and unbeatable warmth. It is often dyed in playful, fashionable colors. Typically, the whiter the fur: the greater the value. A long-haired fur.
Bella Toscana Shearling - This fine shearling features a soft suede finish on one side and long, silky wool on the other. The wool on Bella Toscana shearling is hand dyed for a natural, wild look.
Bias - The diagonal of a woven fabric between the warp (lengthwise) and the filling (crosswise) threads. This part of the fabric has the greatest amount of stretch and can easily be distorted in the cleaning and pressing process.
Blackglama - An American Legend trade name describing a very dark brown shade of mink that appears almost black.
Bleaching - A chemical process in which furs are lightened or made white. Bleaching generally weakens the leather of a fur.
Bleeding - The running of dyes that aren't colorfast in solvent or water. When the color runs it can stain other materials.
Blemish - Any distinct mark occurring on the skin that is secondary to the natural character of the skin.
Blend - A fabric made from two or more fibers that will have the performance characteristics of both fibers (i.e., a cotton and polyester blend).
Bouclé - A rough, fairly thick, novelty yarn that gives a fabric a tufted or knotted texture.
Broadcloth - A tightly woven, plain weave fabric often made of cotton or cotton/polyester blends popular in shirts.
Brocade - A heavy jacquard weave fabric with a design, such as leaves and flowers, woven into it. Metallic threads are often used in brocades.
Bugle Beads - Tube-shaped beads originally made of glass although often man-made. Gold or silver coatings inside the tube may discolor with age or be removed in a drycleaning process.
Bukhara - Trade name for Persian Lamb (karacul) from the U.S.S.R.
Burnished - Induced shine accomplished by ironing the skin.
Calico - A woven cotton fabric usually with an allover floral print.
Camel Hair - A hair fiber made from either an Asian or African camel. Similar specialty hair fibers come from South American animals, such as, Llama, Alpaca, Guanaco and Vicuna. Cashmere - A fine, soft wool obtained from goats native to Kashmir and Tibet.
Cashmere - fine soft wool, originally that from the Kashmir goat.
Cellulose - Fibers that come from a plant source, such as cotton, linen, ramie and many forms of rayon.
Chenille -A fuzzy pile yarn that resembles a caterpillar or pipe cleaner. Commonly found in rugs, bedspreads, and bathroom accessories, but also used in sweaters, blouses, and dresses.
Chiffon - A sheer, lightweight, woven fabric originally made of silk but usually made from man-made fibers today.
Chintz - A closely woven plain weave fabric with a shiny lustrous finish, often printed in bright floral designs.
City Chilean Shearling - This shearling, noted for its exceptional value and durability, is usually from or processed in Chile. Rugged and robust, it's a hardworking, great-looking heavyweight.
Chinchilla - Extremely sought after, Chinchilla boasts an extremely soft, silky texture. It features a short, dense fur with lustrous guard hairs and sumptuous underfur.
Cockle - A common skin disease due to insect attack while the animal is alive. It appears as circular spots resembling raindrops.
Colorfast - A term which implies that the color in a fabric will not be removed in the recommended cleaning procedure but may change or fade upon normal and expected exposure to sunlight or other atmospheric elements.
Commercial grade - A fur of less than prime quality.
Corduroy - A pile fabric in which yarns inserted in the weave have been cut to make narrow or wide ribs.
Corral Merino (Double-Face) Shearling - This extremely soft Spanish Merino shearling is created by dyeing the skin with multiple colorations and then buffing it. The result is a fabulous contrast: a wild, rugged look on the outside and soft, silky wool on the inside.
Corrected Grain - A process of correcting cowhide skins whereby the grain of the leather is leveled with a chemical product. The process is generally applicable to lower-quality skins with deep abrasions.
Cost-utility ratio - A term used when determining the advisability of having a fur remodeled.
Cotton - A natural soft fiber that grows around the seeds of the cotton plant. The fiber is most often used to make a versatile, soft, breathable fabric.
Coyote - This distinctive fur is known for its wonderfully wild look and durability. A long-haired fur, it is often pale grey or tan, with soft, thick underfur.
Crepe - A fabric with an overall crinkled surface that is made from yarns with such a high twist that the yarn actually kinks.
Crocking - Loose fiber/dye particles which don't fully adhere to the skin.
Curly Suede Sheepskin - Sometimes referred to as "Slink Lamb," Curly Suede is the name given to sheepskin with tight curls on one side and a suede finish on the other.
Damask - A flat, patterned fabric with plain and satin weaves produced on a jacquard loom much like brocade.
Denim - A twill weave fabric with a colored warp and white filling thread usually associated with blue jeans.
Diesel - Diesel is a process of tanning sheepskin hides to yield a durable finish and strong wool.
Distressed - A process of finishing on a variety of skins (cow, lamb, goat) which simulate a worn or aged look.
Double Hiding - Naturally occurring phenomenon in lambskins relating to the separation of the layers of the skin, with the formation of air pockets between the layers of skin.
Down - Soft fine fluffy feathers that form the first covering of a young bird or an insulating layer below the contour feathers of an adult bird.
Drape - Refers to the manner in which the finished garment hangs on the person.
Drum - A large vessel or vat used in the processing of the skins.
Drum Dyed - A process of coloration whereby the skins are fully immersed in a liquid dye solution in order to obtain desired color.
Drumming - A process in which furs are cleaned and fluffed by putting them in a drum with chemically treated sawdust. The abrasive action of the sawdust as the fur revolves in the drum cleans and fluffs the furs.
Drycleaning - Drycleaning is a type of cleaning done in a closed machine that cleans, spin and dries. This machine can use any number of special cleaning solvents other than water. Drycleaning solvents are easier on clothes than washing, preventing shrinkage, color loss, and change of texture or finish, thus returning the garment to you in a ready to wear condition.
Dyeing - A process in which the color of a fur is changed.
Easy Care/Wrinkle Free - Easy care, Wrinkle-resistant, wrinkle free, durable press and permanent press are textile-finishing terms that are used interchangeably. These terms all apply to various types of finishing agents that have been added to fabrics to prevent or decrease the amount of wrinkles.
Emboss - A mechanical means of changing the normal grain of the skin.
Embroidered - Decorate (cloth) by sewing patterns on it with thread.
Entrefino Shearling - This type of shearling is most commonly found in Spain and is renowned for the fine quality of its wool and luxurious hand.
Ermine - Used for the bordering of judges' robes in France and the U.K., Ermine features extremely silky guard hairs and dense underfur. Exotics - Refers to a number of unusual animal/reptile skins that are tanned primarily for the small leather good/accessory/shoe business (i.e. lizard, snake, crocodile skins, etc.)
Fabric - The outer fabric of a garment or household item. Sometimes called the base fabric.
Fake fur - A common term for synthetic fabrics used to imitate animal pelts. Fake fur fibers are very easily damaged by heat. Feathering - Clipping fur in shingled layers to produce an effect similar to eyelash fringe. Feathering is also another term for tip-dyeing, as this process was often done with a feather.
Felt - A fabric made from wool, fur, or hair fibers that mesh together when heat, moisture, and mechanical action are applied.
Finish - A means of adjusting the skin in order to achieve the desired color, or the visible layer of materials applied to the skin
Finishing - Pressing or ironing done on specialized equipment. Drycleaners use many different pieces of equipment to professionally finish any type of household or wearable fashion. Such professional care gives garments a crisp, wrinkle-free, like-new appearance.
Finn Raccoon - A soft, supple fur, Finn Raccoon features long, thick, light-colored guard hairs with black tips and dense underfur.
Fire Resistant - Chemicals applied to fabrics to make them resistant to burning.
Fisher - From an animal similar to the Martin, Fisher fur is renowned for its soft hand and durability. It features silky guard hairs and a rich, dense underfur. Fitch - A long-haired, wonderfully natural-looking fur, Fitch features long guard hairs over underfur.
Flank - the loose, thin side portion of the skins (the underbelly of the animal).
Flat fur - A type of fur with leather and only one kind of fur or hair, such as hair seal or Persian lamb.
Flax - A soft, lustrous and flexible plant fiber, stronger than cotton but less elastic. The best grades are used for linen.
Flesh - The interfacing side of the skin as opposed to the outer portion of the skin.
Fleshing - Scraping the leather side of a raw pelt to remove excess fats and other material.
Flocked Fabric Finish - Small pieces of fiber glued or bonded to the surface of a fabric to alter the texture or create a design to imitate velvet or suede.
Florentine Merino Shearling - A luxurious Spanish Merino shearling that features a soft suede finish and silky fur that's hand-dyed to create a wild and natural look.
Fox - Soft, luxurious Fox comes in the widest range of natural colors of any fur, with the exception of mink. Natural color varieties include silver cross, crystal blue, red, grey, and white; pelts can also be dyed in fashionable colors. Fox fur features long, lustrous guard hairs with thick, soft underfur.
French Invisible Method - This type of reweaving is done on very small holes, up to about the size of a dime. It is a meticulous process in which threads are taken from an inside seam of the garment and actually hand woven in and out of all other threads in order to close the hole and make it invisible. It is time-consuming process and is thus the most expensive method.
French Laundry - French laundry cleaners are typically cleaners that wash and tend to delicate articles of fabric. While, they will clean a variety of things, this is their specialty. French laundry methods are used a various cleaners.
Frontier Shearling (Double-Face) Shearling - Known for rugged good looks and high-level performance, this plush, hardy shearling hails from the chilly mountains of Iceland. Intrepid in even the bitterest weather, it is tanned using century-old techniques.
Fusible Fabric - A fabric with an adhesive coating that can be joined to another fabric by applying heat, moisture and pressure.
Gabardine - A closely woven durable fabric recognized by a diagonal line. Mostly used for jeans and uniforms, the fabric can show shine when the raised lines are flattened in wear areas.
Glazed - Induced shine on the skin surface by a glass or steel roller.
Goat Fur - Rustic and uniquely textured, goat fur features the animal’s natural hide and fur for a rugged look and feel.
Grooving - Shearing fur in “stripes” of alternating widths and depths. The result is similar to corduroy; the stripes can be wide or narrow. Also called cording.
Grotzen - A Yiddish word referring to the guard hair along the center back of a pelt. It is longer and coarser than the rest of the fur and sometimes resembles a short mane.
Growth - Naturally occurring lines which form during the development of the animal, generally found around the neck and butt area.
Guard hair - The long lustrous outer hair of a fur that protects the animal from inclement weather. Guard hairs are lacking in flat furs such as antelope.
Hand - Refers to the tactile feel of the leather.
Hydrocarbon technologies - Hydrocarbon technologies are a branch of chemical technology based on hydrocarbon raw materials derived from petroleum and natural gas. Petroleum is perhaps the most important substance consumed in modern society.
Interfacing - A woven, knit or non-woven fabric used to give additional body and strength to certain parts of garments. Some areas that usually contain interfacing include front opening edges, collars, and pocket flaps.
Inweave - This is the most common reweaving process. A piece of fabric from a hidden area of the garment is placed over the hole and interwoven into the edges of the hole. It also, is a difficult process and must be matched exactly with the pattern of the garment. An inweave on a solid color material may show a discernible square outline.
Ironed Sheepskin - Straightening the wool on sheepskin yields a plush, smooth, fur-like appearance.
Jabot - An ornamental frill or ruffle, typically made of lace.
Jersey - A very thin single-knit fabric with a smooth surface on one side and a more textured surface on reverse. The word jersey is often used to describe any knit.
Knit - A method of making fabrics through the interlooping of yarn. These fabrics are characterized by their ability to stretch and recover to the original shape.
Lace -Lace is an openwork fabric, patterned with open holes in the work, made by machine or by hand. There are many types of lace designs and mostly used for decorative trim.
Lambrequins - A short piece of decorative drapery hung over the top of a door or window or draped from a shelf or mantelpiece
Leather- Any animal skin that is tanned with its hair follicles removed.
Leathering - A process in which strips of fur are alternated with strips of leather. It is used to lighten very heavy furs, such as wolverine and badger, and to create different styles.
Letting out - A method in which pelts are scored into very narrow, fine strips, and then resewn. The shape of the pelt is changed, but not the square area.
Life Expectancy - the useful life of a garment or household item under normal conditions. Contrary to the belief of some, frequent cleaning does not damage clothes. Frequent cleaning extends the life of a garment by removing stains and ground-in dirt and soils that can cause fiber abrasion.
Linen - Linen is a material made from the fibers of the flax plant. Used mainly for lightweight summer clothes. It is strong, durable, and resists rotting in damp climates.
Lycra - This is Invista's registered trademark for a synthetic fabric with elastic properties known generically as "spandex or elastane"
Lynx - Lynx is one of nature's most exquisitely patterned pelts.
Canadian Lynx features creamy white tones and characteristic darker markings. Russian Lynx features soft, creamy fur with subtle beige markings.
Lyocell - A fiber made from wood pulp with many similar properties as rayon. It is marketed under the trade name, "Tencel". Majestic - Trade name for Canadian mink.
Marten - Several different types of Martens produce sleek and luxurious pelts. The American Marten features long, silky guard hairs and a dense underfur; the Baum Marten has fur that's softer, shinier, and silkier. The Stone Marten, the finest available, has soft, plush guard hairs and a thick underfur.
Matelassé - Matelassé (pronounced matt-le-zay) is a French word meaning padded, lined or quilted. It is used to describe fabric that appears to be quilted but is not. The looms used to produce matelassé cotton were invented in 1801 by a Frenchman named Joseph Marie Jacquard.
Mercerized - Mercerization is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric a lustrous appearance.
Merinillo Shearling - The softest, lightest shearling available, usually from Spain.
Merino Grizzly (Double-Face) Shearling - Double dyed and double sueded for a wild and primitive look, this Spanish Merino is one of the softest, lightest, and finest shearlings available.
Microfiber - A very thin, soft synthetic fiber made from polyester or nylon or a blend of polyester and nylon. Popularly used for clothes because it is lightweight, soft, cool and wicks moisture away from the body. It can feel like cotton or silk.
Mill - Tumbling the skins in a large vessel to induce softness and other grain characteristics.
Mink - The most popular fur on the market, Mink features soft, lightweight fur, with lustrous guard hairs and soft, dense underfur. The long-haired version of mink offers a more full-bodied alternative to Sheared Mink. A very durable fur. Sheared Mink is velvety soft and smooth, Sheared Mink is lofty, luxurious, durable, and extremely warm-a sporty alternative to full-bodied Mink. Sheared mink can be dyed a wide range of fashionable colors.
Mohair - Mohair is produced from the hair of the Angora goat. This fabric is durable, warm, insulating, and light.
Moire- silk fabric that has been subjected to heat and pressure rollers after weaving to give it a rippled appearance.
Montana Merino (Double-Face) Shearling - This fine Spanish merino shearling features a curly, two-tone appearance.
Mothproofing - A chemical treatment given to fabrics that provides protection from insects without leaving the objectionable odors of mothballs. Some cleaners provide mothproofing as a service.
Mutation - A fur that is a variation of the naturally occurring color of the fur. Rabbit, chinchilla, fox, and mink are bred in mutation colors. Natural. Natural furs have been dressed, but are sold in their natural colors and textures.
Nap - A fuzzy or soft down-like surface produced by brushing the fabric, usually with wire brushes.
Nappa - A finished lamb, sheepskin or cowhide, on the grain side.
Natural ranch mink - A term referring to mink which ranges in color from chocolate brown to off-black.
Non-woven Fabrics - Fabrics made from fibers that are held together in a web by mechanical or chemical means or through heat. Some examples include felt and Ultrasuede.
Norka - Trade name for Russian mink.
Northern Merino (Double-Face) Shearling - This classic shearling hails from the north of Spain and is known for rugged elegance and supple softness.
Nubuck - A process of finishing whereby the grain side of the skin (lambskin or cowhide) is stripped away, leaving a suede effect. The look of the nubuck process will give a similar appearance to suede as it produces a tight, velvety nap.
Nutria - Very similar to Beaver, Nutria is a silky, lightweight fur that is often shorn, for a sporty look. A versatile fur, it's used frequently in linings and trims and can be dyed a variety of fashionable colors.
Nylon - A generic designation for a synthetic fiber produced originally as a replacement for silk.
Odor Removal - Some cleaners specialize in odor removal and flood and fire restoration of water or smoke-damaged items. These cleaners use special chemicals and equipment in the elimination of the odors.
Olefin - A heat sensitive synthetic fiber most often used in carpets, but can also be used in components of clothes. Olefin is also referred to as polypropylene.
Organza - A crisp transparent fabric usually made from silk, nylon or polyester.
Oxford - A fabric woven in a 2x1 basket weave and made of cotton or a cotton blend. It often has a thin, colored warp and a thick, white filling and is commonly used in shirts.
Oxidation - A natural process in which fur changes color over time. Although all furs will eventually oxidize, modern tanning techniques make the change in color look natural.
Pack - Refers to any dye lot (drum load) of tanned leather.
Partial skins - Portions of pelts, including flanks or sides and bellies, that are used in fur garments. The fur is usually softest in these areas, and the desirability of the fur depends largely on the markings, color, and texture.
Patent - A heavily finished effect that gives a highly lustrous, baked enamel type appearance.
Pigment Dyed - A process of finishing any leather whereby the color is applied in the final stage of finishing. The pigment is applied to the surface of the skin instead of being absorbed into the skin as in the case of the drum-dyed leather.
Pelt -A pelt is the naturally beautiful hide or skin of an animal. All of our sheepskin pelts and cowhide rugs are hand-chosen for their quality and beauty; we use only the finest animal skins for long-lasting, rugged elegance.
Pieced fur - Furs made from very small trimmings from full pelts-may be as small as a half an inch in length. The cuttings are usually sewn into large sheets, called plates. Such furs as fox, mink, or Persian lamb can be pieced. Pieced furs are less expensive than other types, but also wear the most poorly, and for this reason should always be reinforced on the leather side.
Pile - A fabric with an extra set of yarns inserted into the base of the woven or knit fabric to produce the "hair like" surface texture. Velvet, velveteen, corduroy, and fake fur are the most common pile fabrics.
Pilling - The tendency of short fibers to mat and form small balls or pills on the surface of a fabric. The length of the fiber and twist of the yarn will affect pilling.
Pinhole - A natural defect related to skins of fine-wooled origin. When thick hair follicles or clumps of hair follicles are removed from the grain of the leather, they can leave a hole the size of a pin prick in the surface of the skin similar to a pore.
Plates - Sections of fur-often measuring eighteen by twenty-four inches-that have been sewn together like cloth. The fur pattern is placed on the plate, which is cut like fabric. Pieced furs are made from plates.
Plucking - A process in which the guard hairs of a fur are removed by tweezing or plucking. In some cases, only the uneven or coarse hairs are plucked. It is necessary to pluck the furs before shearing them.
Polyester - A synthetic fiber that can be made into many fabric forms. It can simulate many other fibers, such as silk and rayon, thus is very popular in clothing.
Polyurethane - Polyurethane is a unique material that offers the elasticity of rubber combined with the toughness and durability of metal. It is used mainly as a coating material for many fabrics, such as coats and ski wear.
Preservation - Preservation is a special type of storage that helps prolong the life of a garment for years and years. Many cleaners specialize in the preservation of wedding gowns, christening gowns, and other family heirlooms.
Processing - Any method of changing the appearance or texture of a given fur including dyeing, grooving, and bleaching.
PVC - The shortened term for polyvinyl chloride, a hard thermoplastic material. When PVC is made softer by special chemicals, it is used in upholstery and clothing. It can simulate leather.
Rabbit -Soft, silky, and extremely popular, Rabbit is wonderfully lightweight and warm. Typically, Rabbit features medium-length guard hairs and is often sheared or grooved for a more sporty look.
Raccoon - Soft, sumptuous, and beautiful in its natural coloring, Raccoon features long grey or black guard hairs with silver tips, with a thick, dense underfur. Wild and wooly, Raccoon is a very durable fur.
Ranched fur - Fur from animals which are raised on farms, including mink, chinchilla, sheep, fox, and nutria. Approximately 85 to 90 percent of the furs used in the United States are from ranched animals.
Rayon - The generic name for a cellulose-based man-made fiber. Rayon can have characteristics similar to those of cotton, linen, and silk.
Restoration - In addition to preservation, cleaners may specialize in the restoration of old wedding gowns, heirloom items, and antique textiles. These items often are very delicate and require great care and the level they can restored depends on their condition at the time they are brought in. It is not uncommon, though, for a cleaner to restore a wedding gown originally worn by a bride-to-be's grandmother well enough that the bride can wear it in her own wedding.
Rex Rabbit - Rex Rabbit is known for its plush, velvety hand and sumptuous feel. Can be worn natural, long, and silky, or sheared and sporty.
Reknitting - This type of weave can be done on knitted fabrics only, such as sweaters, double knits or wool knits. Visibility depends on the type and color of the knit and the size of the damage.
Rhinestones - This decorative glistening trim is a diamond simulant made from glass, plastic, crystal or acrylic.
Ribbing - A process in which very narrow strips of leather are alternated with strips of fur. Often used for less expensive coats and jackets.
Ribby - A naturally occurring phenomenon, particularly associated with fine-wooled sheepskins whereby the rib-cage area of the animal leaves delineated markings on the skin.
Sable - Sable is an abundant yet lightweight fur that is known for its quality and durability. In general, Sable features long, luxurious guard hairs and thick underfur. Russian Sable, the most coveted Sable, is brown with silver fur. Canadian Golden Sable features gold and amber hues.
SAGA - Trademark for ranch-raised Scandinavian mink and fox pelts.
Satin - Satin weave fabrics are characterized by yarns that float over four to seven yarns before being interlaced with yarns laid in the opposite direction. The floating yarns along the surface reflect light, which gives the fabric its luster. Satin fabrics can be made from silk or man-made fibers like acetate, rayon, nylon, and polyester.
Scars - Any unnatural occurring opening in the skin surface that has healed, leaving a distinct marking.
Seedy - Small indentions of the grain surface caused by grass-seed penetration.
Sequins - Sequins are disk shaped flat beads used for decorative purposes. They are available in a wide variety of colors and geometrical shapes. Sequins may be sewn or glued to fabrics.
Sheared Beaver - Sheared Beaver has a soft, velvety hand and unbeatable warmth. It is often dyed in playful, fashionable colors. Typically, the whiter the fur: the greater the value. A long-haired fur. Beaver (natural) In its natural form, Beaver features long, lustrous guard hairs over a thick, plush underfur. It features sumptuous warmth and a natural look.
Sheared Mink - Velvety soft and smooth, Sheared Mink is lofty, luxurious, durable, and extremely warm-a sporty alternative to full-bodied Mink. The most popular fur available, mink can be dyed a wide range of fashionable colors. Mink (natural) features soft, lightweight fur, with lustrous guard hairs and soft, dense underfur. A more full-bodied alternative.
Shearling - Natural lamb pelts with the leather side often sueded and worn on the outside.Color variation and skin blemishes are common.
Shears - A thin, diaphanous material, as chiffon or voile.
Shrunken - A process applied strictly to sheep and lambskins, whereby the natural grain texture is altered to take on a pebbled or mottled appearance. This tanning process can be induced either chemically or physically by shrinking the skin.
Silk - A natural filament fiber produced by silk worms when spinning their cocoons that is popular for its natural luster and softness.
Sizing - A finish applied to yarns and fabrics to enhance their texture, weight and luster. Sizings are invisible and if removed in a care process the shape and appearance of a fabric will be affected.
Skin-on-skin - A method of making fur garments in which the skins are not let out, but trimmed, and then fit to a pattern. Skin-on-skin coats are less expensive to make and do not require as much skill as let-out garments. This process is often used with larger skins, as well as with less expensive pelts. However, sable and mink garments are made skin-on-skin as well.
Skive - The process of reducing the thickness of leather.
Skiver - The grain split of the sheepskin.
Sobol - Trade name for Soviet-produced sable, considered the finest in the world.
Spandex - A strong, stretchable synthetic fiber used as a replacement for rubber. Common trade names of Lycra or Elaspan.
Specialty fur - A fur combining unusual techniques and materials to create a one-of-a-kind garment.
Split - A layer of skin that has been skived off by mechanical means.
Square Foot - The unit of measure of a skin by which all leathers are purchased from tanners by manufacturers.
Stain removal (spotting) - Drycleaners use complex procedures and special stain removal chemicals to remove stains. Different stains require different treatments, which drycleaners are trained to do. Why risk a disaster using an over-the-counter "all-purpose" stain removal product or trying a "home remedy" when you could rely on your drycleaner's expert stain removal abilities?
Stain Resistant - Special chemicals can be applied to fabrics and garments that allow them to "release" stains more readily when cleaned.
Starch - This is a special chemical compound that bonds with fabric during professional laundering to add body or stiffness. A starch is removed in the next laundry process.
Stone Buffed Merino Shearling - This Spanish Merino shearling is hand-buffed with volcanic pumice stones and hand-dyed to create a rugged, worn-in look and feel.
Strain - A skin defect generally found in the flank of the skin wherein the grain layer of the skin opens and splits away from the secondary layer of skin.
Suede - Suede skins are always finished on the flesh side of the skin. By doing so, the tanner is able to achieve a "nappy" appearance. If the tanner leaves the fibrous materials of the skin too long, the skin is termed to be "woolly". If the tanner desires a fine smooth appearance, the individual fibers are closely cropped and the skin is termed to have a "fine nap".
Swag - A curtain or piece of fabric fastened so as to hang in a drooping curve.
Synthetics - A synthetic material or chemical, especially a textile fiber.
Taffeta - a fine lustrous silk or similar synthetic fabric with a crisp texture.
Tannage/Tanning - The means of stabilizing the skin structure by chemical means.
Tanning - A process in which the raw pelts are skinned, fleshed, soaked, and washed in special solutions to prepare them for use in garments.
Tanuki - The Japanese raccoon boasts exotic, sumptuous fur with distinctive markings. Tanuki is well known for its long guard hairs and supple hand.
Tencel - The trade name for lyocell. See Lyocell.
Ticking - A strong, durable material, typically striped, used to cover mattresses and pillows
Tip-dyeing - Coloring only the tips of the guard hairs for uniform shading.
UGG - Ugg boots are known in Australia and New Zealand as a unisex style of sheepskin boot. It is typically made of twin-faced sheepskin with fleece on the inside, a tanned outer surface and a synthetic sole
Underfiber - The underfur of a fur with guard hairs. The underfiber, or underfur, should be dense, soft, and compact. This is what keeps you,and the animal, warm.
Upholstery cleaning - Uses portable equipment containing drycleaning fluid or water solution to remove soils from furniture fabrics. Upholstery fabrics, including zippered cushion covers, are not made to withstand drycleaning or laundering.
Valance - A length of decorative drapery attached to the canopy or frame of a bed in order to screen the structure or the space beneath it.
Velvet - A fabric with a short, closely woven pile. It is usually made of rayon, acetate, silk, nylon, or a blend of these fibers.
Vintage fur - A previously owned garment that combines a high degree of workmanship with quality materials to create a valuable antique fur.
Vinyon - A synthetic fiber made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and is used in fabric coatings and trims. It can be made to simulate leather.
Viscose - A type of rayon and sometimes is used interchangeably with the term rayon.
Water Repellent - Special chemicals can be added to fabric surfaces to actually repel water during inclement weather. These can be applied by the clothing manufacturer or afterwards by a professional cleaner.
Weave - Yarns interlacing at right angles. There are three basic weave types: plain, twill, and satin. All other weaves are variations of these. Some of the more common variations include basket, rib, and jacquard.
Weight - The term used for the measurement of the thickness of the leather.
Wet cleaning - Wet cleaning is a professional water based process that uses specialized additives that are safe on dyes and fabrics to minimize shrinkage and color loss. Professional wet cleaning also includes stain removal and finishing, which returns the garment to you in a ready to wear condition.
Wool - A versatile natural fiber derived from the hair of domesticated animals, usually lamb or sheep. Wool wicks moisture and depending on the type of fabric the yarn is spun into, can keep you warm or cool.
Woolen - A wool fabric made from loosely twisted yarns that have a somewhat fuzzy surface.
Worsted - A wool fabric with a clean, smooth surface made from tightly twisted yarns.
Yarn - A continuous strand spun from short (staple) fibers or long (filament) fibers. Yarns can be of low twist (lofty) or high twist (tight).